Well, it's RAINING today. It's still going. Our hotel room is pretty decent, especially for what it's costing us. I woke up around 8 or so, to find it wasn't just lightly showering, it was really coming down. But, the rain did not deter the dozens of salarymen riding bicycles through the Osaka streets, and it did not deter us. Our hotel is across from a convenience store, where I picked up a five-buck umbrella, which has been serving me quite well. From there, it was on to our first official tourist destination: Osaka-jo (Osaka Castle).
The hotel is located mere blocks from this massive chunk of Osaka history, but that didn't stop Courtland from getting lost. I loathe him and his crappy sense of direction. But then we got there so I like him again. We and our cameras began to explore the castle grounds.
Here we are, getting mostly lost. There was a fairly ominous group we kept running into on our way through the Osaka streets, led by a man in orange. They chanted in low, hushed tones as they beat taiko drums. I thought they were a funeral march, and despite the fact that we navigated a completely random-ass we-speak-no-Japanese-and-are-totally-fucking-lost path to the castle, we ran into this same procession three times. Eventually, though, the group stopped at the Osaka Peace Center, so maybe they were a peace march. Or maybe there are mobile advertisements for the Peace Center that are just really depressing.
Regardless, we pressed on through the rain, enjoying all manner of topiary, statues, outlying buildings, and this really nice archway.
Through the arch was what looked like a nice old temple, complete with those neat green statues of lions with giant tongues. Also escaping the rain was a cat, who had located the only cat-sized patch of dry ground in the entire castle.
neko-cha~n
Nearing the keep proper, we happened upon several gift shops and snack stands. This is Osaka, after all, and I was able to check an important task off my list:
Takoyaki, as it turns out, are really damn tasty. For four bucks, you get eight fried octopus balls in this sweet BBQ sauce stuff, and all the toothpicks you can fucking carry. The interior of these treats is very juicy and you should probably let them cool a bit. I burned my damn mouth, having popped the entire first takoyaki in my gaping maw and then taking a big damn bite. I don't care. Totally worth it. They taste like calamari dumplings. A nice crisp outside, really sweet sauce, a savory center and that unmistakable rubbery texture of octopus. Ed and David also manned up and took the takoyaki plunge, despite the fact that they do not care for most seafoods (why the HELL are they in JAPAN).
From there, it was into the main keep, seen here:
The castle keep has been repurposed into a big giant museum, not unlike the Texas Book Depository. This isn't so much of a perversion of history as it might sound like, since Osaka Castle was actually burnt to the ground several centuries ago, and what's there now is a reconstruction. Still, there are a great number of artifacts inside that date back to the 16th century, and many stories of intrigue surrounding the family that built it. Also from the top you can see a lot of stuff. Most of what we saw was rain. But it was Japanese rain!
Apparently the four of us lent additional novelty to the castle, being gaijin and all. Several school groups were visiting the castle as well, and seeing us prompted many children to chirp "Haro!" Adorable though they were, these kids practicing their English, nobody paid any damn admission to see us. Japan fucking owes us.
From Osaka Castle, we went to lunch. THIS happened.
Yeah.
The place we did actually eat was a friendly little place called Curry B (kare B), operated by a pair of tiny Japanese women, who were as pleasant and spirited as could be. Courtland and I combined our mighty Japanese skills (worth, together, one-twentieth of an actual Japanese human) to crack the secrets of the menu, and had a really terrific meal for not much money at all. We drank a toast to the first of many attempts to order what we thought we wanted. I had a spicy curry with shumai in it. Quality.
From there, we headed off to the Osaka History Museum to enjoy more of Osaka's storied past. This proved difficult; whereas Osaka Castle had kindly provided placards with English translations, the museum only translated the names of the exhibits--not their significance. Still, there were lots of old swords and currency and an entire floor guided by a friendly Bunraku puppet. I'm sure this memory will resurface when I'm very old, and haunt my dreams. Puppets are inherently mean and unpleasant.
From there, we returned to the hotel to rest our feet. As I blog, we're watching yet another inexplicable Japanese game show, marking possible destinations on the map, and planning to go out tonight for several drinks. My yen are holding up just fine and today I ate terrifying things.
Life is good.
2 comments:
Rain notwithstanding, it sounds like you're off to a great start. Yay for takoyaki on the first day! I hope the rain will let up, though it doesn't seem to have stopped you.
Loving the pix!
I had to laugh at the neko-chan photograph; that's my personal nickname for Noriko, my sister-in-law, who is from Gifu province (western Honshu). And yes, she is very adorable (and loving -- my brother is a better person for having married her), so I know whereof you fellows speak about Japanese ladies.
Are you going to visit Nagashino? One of the Osprey military campaign books features the battle that took place there...an epic even by world standards.
I'll be interested to see what you have to say on the katana issue when you come back.
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